In the summer you came That There Was Something everyone eating
The first time I went to Punta del Diablo was when I was in sixth high school. Different friends, different love stories, a different time. Cabo Polonio to walk from that town, that people seemed more than a small dock with bad houses scattered around. The father of the girl I liked had come Castle with a marinated pork surprise. Our stomachs too used to parboiled rice with tuna opened Romanian gymnast to receive the corpse which was the most enjoyable meal in my entire life. All the refinements had been left out, we all ate with their hands as quickly as we could. Women had traces of dressing on your cheeks and cheekbones. I went from one leg to ream the facial muscles to the poor sucker. All that remained of him was his nose, the rest looked like a body ravaged by hyenas. In the back, and dark and his belly still full, my band mates told me that if they could give me anything, I buy an X-ray of the soul, to see what lay behind the minefield of my words. Already when even our faces were said "what romantic walk, che."
Two years later I saw there with Mary. He had spent most of the summer away from her, and my back was a necessity and immediacy of life all at the same time. Everything was necessary, and almost spent a week doing everything we wanted, having no idea of \u200b\u200bsilver, the weather or customs. From there I will always remember two things. The first, our visit to Clu. Mary took me by the arm, like a blind without a cane, a completely dark path, against which stood on both sides a very thick forest. We walked through the center of the narrow dirt road. Walk down that pit in the vegetation made us feel in the center of the world, afraid that we are close upon us. We never came across a car or person, I just followed Mary that appeared to lead to the center of a nameless mystery, like Virgil guiding me through the dark forest to the gates of hell. When I was going to ask for a second time where we were going, and a bit wary of their promises encrypted, I began to feel a bass grumble of the forest. After a few blocks of darkness, in a moment he opened a clear and there was a bowling outdoors nearly empty, still beating heart of the forest in black. I looked great the idea of \u200b\u200bbowling so great in a place so hidden. It was late February and the season was already quite low. It was just Mary I, the owner, and three Brazilian extremely drunk. I remember playing you a game of ping pong on a makeshift table to one of them, a big brown vizco and so drunk that he could not hit the ball. Almost all the points I made the guy pull out and begged to play a rematch. The second game was more or less the same procedure, just let him get a couple of points, a little shame, a little fear. The guy lost outright, but celebrated two points as if they were the goals of Pele against Sweden in the 58 '.
The second thing I remember was the result of our poor planning. We went on Friday at seven pm and midnight Thursday to spend our last two baurús weight cart. We thought we were going to take the next day without eating, but about three o'clock in the afternoon my sugar began to drop dramatically. I could hardly walk, and after finding a weight on the sand I bought a Boobaloo like a shot of insulin. At that time seriously contemplated the possibility of stealing, but my fear and the lack of physical foundation to perform such act led me to remain inactive. Mary had a credit card, but - naturally- accepted anywhere. The only place we could was at a campsite a few miles. Sugar-free and walking down the road in full sun in the afternoon, we saved a red fiat left us at the campsite. Now I remember, that was one of the meals I enjoyed most in my life. Such was the hunger that got to eat a ham and cheese croissant with fresh milk from the bread smeared with cocaine, melon and strawberry youghurt (all blending into one giant, bolus).
Again, two years later returned to Punta del Diablo. Our experience was more and rented a little cabin as beautiful as cheap:
Storm Trails
Mary from the beginning it was concerned about the Kafkaesque metamorphosis that had been announced in Punta del Diablo. She knew the place from long ago, when a corner was still not quite considered by the dictators of the hype. To our delight, although the place has grown considerably, especially in terms of infrastructure, much more cool homes and Cerati Oriented the old wooden shacks and barbecue, new construction, or at least those we saw in generally had little regard for architectural predecessor. Of course, there are cases like this, which some Argentines apparently embarked on the construction of his own Xanadu.
The case mentioned above, while not a house that is irrevocably ugly, its structure, as a kind of Chappelle's Ronchamp , but more like Darth Vader helmet that the hat of a novice, in contrast aggressively with the environment and turns it into a monolith, an absurd bravado, an erection at the wrong time and place. There are other mistakes and successes, but at least the center remains the same for informal and often warmer than I was.
For Mary was a difficult journey for me. The days were not good at general, always cloudy with isolated rain and it gives more importance to the beach to myself. For her swim in the sea is as important as for a Catholic to go to church on Sundays.
was two in the afternoon and walked along the shore, quite pulled by the wind that seemed to come from the same sea. The weather was pretty cool and certainly every now and fell a mist that seemed to get on a slippery for each of our pores. We decided we were going to the beach, beyond the weather did not help. The image of the main beach is practically empty, with both of us facing the sea of \u200b\u200bgray, in a way reminded me of those winter beaches New England and the Hamptons, similar to the images of the Beach: Interiors, Woody Allen. On the go see a marriage Uruguayan, a surfer boy and an English couple looking at something that is hidden by the waves, to go back to the surface. We asked the British and the man responds "It Seems like a dead animal, or something" . We were seven in silence, watching the black mass that rises and plunges into the jaws of the waves over and over again. Everyone is completely silent, and oddly that feels like a very intimate moment.
few minutes later we continued the walk and slowly came to a beach formed a kind of bay which is to walk down a steep slope. The beach is completely empty, you only see an orange spot on the other side of rock. Maybe a guy with a pilot. We walked along the shore. Beyond the cold, I like to wade through the ankle, I used to its temperature in case I want to dive and it's good for my right foot, still not fully recovered from that strain near the gore I did in December. On the way there are remnants of a storm, ie, water hyacinths, branches, insects, catfish and other freshwater fish looking resigned to the sky from the shore. A memory that I will never erase was when it was still too young to fish, and my grandfather (who was religiously every day an island whose remains are still in front of the Mansa of Atlantis) appeared at one of the evening with a piranha. Yes, there was a Burel was a piranha in all its law. He told me that after the storm, after the great floods of the Parana is not unusual to find such little creatures. We ended Embalmer (do not know what will become of her now.) I remember staying hours looking at the face of the piranha, with rounder eyes, passionate and expressive than any other fish, than any other being on earth. In those moments you realize that this animal was only designed to kill.
We also find a piece of vomit so by sea. When I say thrown up by the sea, I mean both the act of "giving back" and to be processed by other enzymes and gastric juices. The wooden piece was filled with mussels, tunnels constructed and traveled by sea lice larvae coming about in and out of holes in the supeficie, crowned by a sort of shell that does not stop moving circularly, like the eyes of a blind. Even, sometimes opened and allowed to see his pink head, which strangely remained a strange resemblance to an open vulva and topped with a swollen clitoris. This latter association held it for myself.
That seemed more than a piece of wood. It was a boat city, dragging their tenants in a vague and haphazard, as Fellini boat And the Ship Sails. Would drive him back to sea, but in one of those I saw a hole with something black and shiny as oil waiting and watching threatening, like a police checkpoint behind a mirrored glass, without seeing that I could see it. This fear also
I told Mary. We thought
Valizas walking distance, but a drizzle rain that threatened to become discouraged us from our eastern exodus. We would not bathe. Or sticks. However, around I saw the disappointed face of Mary and I did throw me anyway. We swimming and floating around for forty minutes, in a sea of \u200b\u200bgray and laconic, with the eruption of the rain on your skin, as alone as the first people in the world. It was windy and he was certainly cool, but in the water was much better. When we left I felt different, the weather had suddenly ceased to be threatening, the drizzle had turned into just water falling from the sky and the loneliness he turned in another place to inhabit. That push us into the water beyond the bad weather was like a baptism that filled us with a sense of invulnerability rarely make sense. It seemed as if we had merged with Punta del Diablo and their whims, as if we could grasp it and rebel against it. With our new name we returned to our cabin on the same road, laughing at the howling wind and the waves as a teenager and realizing that your muscles and the nerve to kill his father punches. Just when we felt so confident as to get us back into the sea rougher the main beach, like a defiant warning, we saw the sea lion's body, beaten by the waves, rotting on the shore. Rain Dogs
If there is something I've always appreciated these are stray animals. For eleven years I have a homosexual and epileptic beagle put only once in his life. Using the usual and absurd calculation of multiplying his years of seven, the guy would have seventy-seven years. When I criticize the aggressive and neurotic certainly is, I always replied by saying that they would remain the same if this arid sex life during such a number of years. For its part, feral cats have a life full of extreme emotions, violent and promiscuous sex in alleys, the dispute between life and death in clashes with dogs and flying acrobatics without a net in treacherous guardrails, all that with greater elegance dogs, which are always much more visible and safe. But here
dogs Punta del Diablo, certainly an amazing community. Pets of all and one at a time, sleep anywhere, have as many owners as sources of food. They have the bellicose nature of dogs and wild city. Most are clear on the skin, possibly from fights with other dogs or animals, but there is no trace of resentment in them, everyone knows in the depth that is summer and they have to do some sort of agreement between them for most amount of food possible.
In an afternoon without much to do I came out to photograph each of them. As the photos were coming out while the dogs we became more frequent, we put names and within three days and followed us as if we an inhabitant of a lifetime.
Down, Rona photo, copy of the little dog and rat crosses left in the world.
Dego ... For more than when I try to take land rental lifestyle quite far away from all the vices of the city, I could not resist resorting to a cyber once. The cyber, like most things in Punta del Diablo is as improvised as a hospital in a deli. In a past officiated local pool, and eventually they came to open the doors to the world of the future, so they decided to twenty computers so old that the calculator will eat as many resources as autokad, emule, one of skandisk Norton and twenty pages of Soviet porn running at the same time to a regular computer.
Despite some setbacks that force me to have to change my computer three times (in addition to the owner msn, mozilla firefox and internet explorer are summarized as "the cha ) both call me tremendously attention. On my computer there are two users nearby. A veteran and his daughter, who for a few wrinkles, treatment and simple ugly looks like your sister. The two are orange in color for more iodine air oozing tip of the devil, is unlikely to be natural. Indeed, it must have been long and hard with those self-tanning creams that seem to wax the bitumen with which the muscles of bodybuilders. Come to think, living mostly in Pocitos impaired I realize what the veterans who were often based on collagen, sun bed and Scarsdale diets. The thing is that the daughter is talking to an Anglophone by skype. Apparently the mine had been the English teacher. The mother asks "How do you say to say to us?". The mother says "Tell you if the Would like to see you tonight ... not, tell meet me, that." Then the chick as you type it says loudly. says "I would like to teach you more English classes." Then you look at a mother and says " I Would like to Have sex more ... classes? " and start shit with laughter, as everyone tries to pretend not to listen. I always thought it some honesty between father and son, but that state of affairs seems more removed from buddy desperate housewives or sex and the city that an alleged relationship horizontality. I say through clenched teeth: "nothing is less sexy than Uruguayan pop life."
second and completely overwhelming: After checking emails and send my articles to a contest of columnists, I'm going to stick out my blog. In this, as I write dego the bar autocomplete the name of my blog. The accident is overwhelming, who was visiting from the same computer, from Punta del Diablo to my blog?
There are things that do not matter ...
The penultimate night falls the rain that looks like a silver broom sweeping the ground. To our advantage, we devised to convert these climatically summer failed in a sort of great fall vacation. This meant going to know much the town itself, eating out more often, etc. For the same reason, beyond the weather decided to go for a drink. On the way a guy with speech problems to report that we achieved Wolf Mandrake is being presented in a bowling alley from the beach of the Widow. At first we were going to repeat the experience of Clu , but then insist and done, after eating one of those addictive baurús, bowling alley where Mandrake is already playing a few songs. Play several familiar themes, including the great Miriam entered the Hollywood -in my opinion, one of the few national rock videos worthwhile, "It is easy to get sidetracked (unknowingly, Wolf becomes augur of floods in Buenos Aires two days later) and Deep Love (mine behind me says to her boyfriend "but if that is Jaime Roos ...").
A Mandrake likes to talk between songs. In a question if someone bowling called Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young. Just raise your hand a guy who came with me and the band. The wake up with some uncertainty, partly because I am not a connoisseur of the band sublime (although I heard the Déjà vu), partly because they were some sediment in my teens, raise your hand where it was very frowned upon. Honestly, I can not remember which issue was remixing Mandrake, but I was extremely rough with a pronunciation and unorthodox. Strangely, coming to something similar but exactly opposite to what succeeds Peter Dalton behind the microphone of Buenos Muchachos. While in the second the use of the English cave filled to primitivism intimidating words that converts voice into a percussion instrument dangerous, Mandrake's voice, power, fragility and intimacy of each verse. Wolf tune, and much, but every time he does is revealing something of his, something that is not free and as a means of expression is warmer than any verse sung by all Cornell's wannabe's who were able to saturate at a time when the Uruguayan rock. Precisely in this lies loosely playing my first approach to the therapists (for non-Uruguayans, the band led by Wolf Mandrake). Like almost everything worth of Uruguayan music, I must confess that at first I liked the band. I had heard a few things, and I had not attracted much attention. However, after I saw the live performance of the band at the awards Graffiti and suddenly the puzzle was rearranged and completely changed my concept of music. If I think objectively, it was a horrible presentation, full of blunders, shockingly out of tune vocals and guitars, bad sound, tempo and output coupling, and yet all endowed Miriam came to Hollywood for a special magic that I saw no chainsaws, Orange or hype recontra genchi über Martin Buscaglia. No, the therapists had their own and in the most rugged were finding my way to my chest.
Several beers and encores later, the ends touch and I'll talk to Mandrake. A friend had told me that is a very simple and fun (I actually said "is the only true rockstar Uruguay), which I check once. I say "get well light bars like the Hollywood" , compared to what he replies, "Well, have to see if we have to bring them out or buried forever" . Hence the talk leads to a worse selection of seedy bars, including Bar Celta closed cases and Maipo, the Andorra and The Eleven (with its distinctive smell of piss). Eventually, I suggest the Blanco Ponte Mandrake and jumps there saying "wait a sec with that. When you end up in the White Ponte and nothing left to hope for in life. " Finished speaking and I swear to use that phrase in a future story or poem. High turnover
For the last night we reserve a few hundred dollars (U.S. $ twenties, approx) to eat well in a beautiful restaurant with candle lights and imagery fisherman who had his eye from a few days. Beer ask, Squid and Squid to share, and a woman sings issues Adriana Varela. Besides the fact that lady sings very well, which is great is that goes with a sports diver and a bandana Puma. Just when I wear glasses I recognize, I have seen it work in one of the stores in town. And there is a feature that separates it from La Paloma, Punta del Este, Atlantis or any other spa or resort town you visited. The lady I am weighing vegetables and sings the tango night, the guitar work on certain sites during the year and at night he plays a darn issues or Matthew, the owner himself out to dance a milonga is a veteran eating in his restaurant, the guitarist invited to a brunette in a table to sing and interpret tipa A dress and a flower Fito Paez voice games like a member of Operación Triunfo waiting for his big chance. Not far away, in another a dark little bar you from playing the most beautiful song Jobim so disgustingly tasteless Mana to pay for food. The guy who rented horses we also fixes cars, we rented the cabin grows tomatoes and gives us some lunch, a construction plunges into the icy depths of winter sea snails to sell in summer and very shipwrecks good price. A child attends you in your local and meanwhile is set to play football with a new friendship Buenos Aires, the teenager who scored us tickets tells us that working in a clothing store of Chuy and baurús lady tells us about his desires to open an own picture next year. All we know is shared by all these activities, and being so well treated, one has no other than wanting to be a better person, or at least be better customer.
The last day will mark the passages for eight in the evening. Are about six in the evening and Mary is arranging the final details of the house. I'm going uphill to the cabin passing a restaurant where a group entirely made up of women plays a kind of music chacarera with violin, charango and drums. On my way sounds trails from the premises and the houses are like mud in my ears. It is mainly reggae, Redonditos ricotta or any of the subjects in Brazil. While going up I start to feel a sound that stands out among all those guitars peaceful. It seems that they are killing someone. As I start to recognize up completely unhinged guitars, monotone voice of Lee Ranaldo, the sounds of melting tires for his speed on the track, the battery disciplined Shelley. The theme is In the Kingdom # 19 . The volume is so high that the eighty meters verses recognize "pain, white light, blinded / There some guy kneeling in the blinded mirage of white light / all my strength to 'heeeeeelp'. " is here I think: There, there that is playing music that most of the people there it must seem shocking, then, that's my home.
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